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Leopard Gecko Care Sheet

Written by allpet.co.uk on Tuesday, 06 July 2010
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Care sheet for Leopard Geckos, Eublapharius macularius and other ground living or night active geckos and skinks.

An Introductory Information Leaflet From Reptile Ranch in association with Europe's Premier Reptile Product Company

Cage Decor: Desert, Savannah or Rain Forest Substrates and Repti-Sand can all be used bone dry as the cage base. These will blot up and 'clump' any fouling by the lizards. Clumps of waste can be removed without cleaning the whole tank out. Cork Bark Logs or Curio Wood could be used to make an interesting three dimensional display. Flake Rain Forest Substrate scattered over the surface makes for an attractive display and acts as an activity medium in which the lizards can hunt. Draping Repti-Vines in the cage will provide refuges the lizards can hide in or move through to loosen shedding skin. Repti-rock caves and water dishes would lend even more functionality and security.

Food: Crickets, Locusts, Mealworms, and as a special treat Waxworms. Supplement livefoods by dusting insects with Repton or feeding Cricket Diet Plus, Mealworm Diet Plus. Tame individuals may also accept a commercially prepared, fresh meat reptile diet. Water should be fresh and changed every day. These lizards may also eat a small amount of fresh sweet fruit and nectar.

Cleanliness and Hygiene: A routine cleaner for all nonporous surfaces could be Vetaclene. Anything that cannot be easily cleaned should be thrown away and replaced. Any little graze or blemish on the animals themselves would benefit
from the first aid afforded by dabbing the wound with Vetadine. As far as human hygiene is concerned, Vetasept Surgical Scrub will clean hands and surfaces while Vetasept Hand Rub will allow adequate cleansing and disinfection even in
cases when water is unavailable.

Hot Spot: A local area of higher temperature may be created with a hot rock, a spot lamp or a ceramic heater. Use the latter two in conjunction with a HabiStat thermostat for precise control. Hot spots should be maintained for the same day length as the lights, fourteen hours in summer, eight in winter.

Cage Set Up: The cage should be set up to allow an active lizard plenty of scope to climb, bask in a hot spot, move to a cooler spot, drink and hunt for food. The lizards should also be able to secrete themselves into refuges and rub themselves against something when shedding their skin.

Background Heat: Use a heat mat between half and two thirds the size of the cage to provide background heating. The hottest spot in the cage should not be above 38ºC while the coolest should not be below 20ºC. Use a HabiStat Mat -Stat if the temperature is too hot, put the whole cage in a cooler place if the temperature is not cool enough.

Simple set up for beginners: A moulded plastic cage is set up with a heat mat taped to the base. The mat should be about half the size of the cage. On to the floor of the cage the substrate is spread as very thin layer of no more than 1 cm. (A thicker layer will act as an insulator and
block the heat from the mat.) Check with a thermometer that the cage is within the acceptable temperature range. Cork Bark or Curio Wood could be used to make hide or a Repti-rock cave could be used. A Repti-rock water dish would be the only other essential. When satisfied everything is OK, add the lizard!

Last modified on Tuesday, 06 July 2010 20:24

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